Sepia Saturday 107: Mad as a Hatter

Alice in Wonderland typically gets the credit for coining the phrase 'mad as a hatter.' My second Great Grand Aunt, Alice Morehouse, was neither mad nor a hatter and I doubt she ever went down any rabbit holes. Alice's grandmother was not mad either but family lore tells us that she was a hat and mantua maker (dressmaker). Fortunately for Sarah (Markins) Morehouse (June 1784 - 1 July 1861), women's hats did not prominently feature felt. The mercury used in the production of felt is what caused some hatters of the 18th and 19th centuries to lose their minds.

Mantua maker was one of the few honorable professions available to an urban widow to support her family. Widowed in 1817 at the age of  33 with five (possibly six) young children, Sarah  (Markins) Morehouse likely supported her family by making hats and dresses first in New York City and later in Cincinnati. Below are a few of the fashions that might have inspired her creations. The general absence of felt is reassuring!

1817 Walking Dress from La Belle Assemblee

Newest Fashions for May 1829: Morning and Evening Dresses

Evening Dress, 1836; Library of Congress

Fashions for August, 1844

1853 Outerwear

Godey's Fashions for December 1861

Confirmation of Sarah (Markins) Morehouse's profession has been hard to come by. From the settlement of her husband's estate, we know that Sarah was not left with sufficient funds to support her family. Sarah is included in the New York City directories but no profession is given. There are a scant few directory listings in Cincinnati that likely apply to Sarah and her spinster daughter, Mary. They had a variety store at the corner 6th and Broadway where Mary sold fripperies ca 1860.

Perhaps it is I who is 'mad as a hatter' as the mere photograph of a hare sends me off to wonderland but thankfully not down any rabbit holes. For other posts inspired by the hare, see Sepia Saturday 107.

Sources:
Wikipedia, "Mad as a Hatter," rev. 04:47, 26 December 2011; "Dressmaker," rev. 22:49, 3 December 2011; "1795-1820 in Fashion," rev. 05:25, 1 January 2012; "1820s in Fashion," rev. 21:16, 3 December 2011; "1830s in Fashion," rev. 04:06, 18 December 2011; "1840s in Fashion," rev. 14:21, 9 December 2011; "1850s in Fashion," rev. 00:48, 23 December 2011.

"Evening Dress," digital image, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Online Catalog (http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/97511063/ : accessed 7 January 2012).

"Godey's fashions for December 1861 / Capewell & Kimmel, sc.," digital image, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Online Catalog ( http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/97511046/ : accessed 7 January 2012).