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Mantua maker was one of the few honorable professions available to an urban widow to support her family. Widowed in 1817 at the age of 33 with five (possibly six) young children, Sarah (Markins) Morehouse likely supported her family by making hats and dresses first in New York City and later in Cincinnati. Below are a few of the fashions that might have inspired her creations. The general absence of felt is reassuring!
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| 1817 Walking Dress from La Belle Assemblee |
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| Newest Fashions for May 1829: Morning and Evening Dresses |
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| Evening Dress, 1836; Library of Congress |
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| Fashions for August, 1844 |
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| 1853 Outerwear |
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| Godey's Fashions for December 1861 |
Perhaps it is I who is 'mad as a hatter' as the mere photograph of a hare sends me off to wonderland but thankfully not down any rabbit holes. For other posts inspired by the hare, see Sepia Saturday 107.
Sources:
Wikipedia, "Mad as a Hatter," rev. 04:47, 26 December 2011; "Dressmaker," rev. 22:49, 3 December 2011; "1795-1820 in Fashion," rev. 05:25, 1 January 2012; "1820s in Fashion," rev. 21:16, 3 December 2011; "1830s in Fashion," rev. 04:06, 18 December 2011; "1840s in Fashion," rev. 14:21, 9 December 2011; "1850s in Fashion," rev. 00:48, 23 December 2011.
"Evening Dress," digital image, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Online Catalog (http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/97511063/ : accessed 7 January 2012).
"Godey's fashions for December 1861 / Capewell & Kimmel, sc.," digital image, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Online Catalog ( http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/97511046/ : accessed 7 January 2012).
Oh what a delightful post! Just love all these fancy hats and dresses! We also have a pub not far from me called the Mad Hatter! But looking through the looking glass is always quite fun at the sepia posts, right! Enjoy your weekend!
ReplyDeleteThis is so incredibly interesting. I had no idea that this was the basis for this expression or that felt was produced with mercury. Now I'm off to google "fripperies."
ReplyDeleteI never knew that the expression "mad as a hatter" actually had anything to do with hat making and mercury. Those dresses are pretty as a picture, but I'm sure glad I never had to wear anything like them.
ReplyDeleteKaren, a pint at the Mad Hatter pub would be just the thing!
ReplyDeleteKathy, I had thought to put the definition of frippery in the post but there are two meanings and it is possible that either applied!
ReplyDeletePostcardy, The dresses do look like a pain to wear but I must admit that I am almost tempted to become a Civil War re-enactor to have an excuse to wear a dress like the ones in Godey's fashions!
ReplyDeleteThe town of Luton in the UK has been associated with hat making since the 17 century. The Luton Town football club and its supporters have the nickname 'The Hatters.'
ReplyDeleteI assume you have looked at census reports where possible? Often they state the occupation of the person, though perhaps the early census reports do not. I have noticed the older the reports, the less info there is.
ReplyDeleteI didn't know about hatters actually being mad because of the felt.
ReplyDeleteWhowerethey, Yes, I do have the census reports and they are some help. I should have included the citation. For Sarah, there is only the 1850 and 1860 census. She was older by that time and no occupation was listed. In the 1850 census, Sarah is living with her daughter Mary whose occupation is listed as 'Dry Goods Store.' That provides some substantiation but no direct evidence of Sarah's occupation. Thanks for the thought!
ReplyDeleteBob, do the Luton fans were hats? The clothing worn here for American football games is amazingly creative ....
ReplyDeleteKristin, it is amazing how many of our ancestors were exposed to mercury or lead in their professional lives. It is really very frightening!
ReplyDeleteInteresting about the mercury in felt sending the hatters mad, and there are some lovely dresses in the picture :-) Jo
ReplyDeleteLiz, as always you did an amazing job with this weeks post. I learn something new from you every week. I may be wrong, but I think John Morehouse's widow Mary (Sarah's sister-in-law), was also a dressmaker in NYC after John died. Thank you for making our illustrious ancestor even more interesting. My "hat" is off to you this week. Debbie
ReplyDeleteI love your twist on this week's theme.
ReplyDeleteDebbie, you are right that sister, Mary, was a dress maker and is listed in the NYC directories as such.
ReplyDeleteWendy, managed to stay on theme with nary a rabbit in sight. :)
ReplyDeleteBeautiful fashion plates Liz, but I agree they would not be very comfortable to wear.
ReplyDeleteIt is hard to imagine how women got by so long ago. And imagine making such fine clothes but never being able to wear them. Always needing to sell them instead of taking a fine turn out on the town.
ReplyDeleteWonderful images.
Nell, I loved hunting down the fashion plates. It was great fun. Too bad I have no photos!
ReplyDeleteTattered, I've run across some really appalling treatment of widows in my research. As often as not, they were bilked out of their estates. Sarah was fortunate.
I'm trying to imagine sewing dresses like those! They are amazing, with so much detail. Knowing they were handmade puts a new spin on the idea of getting a new dress (considering the little bit of fabric that's used in dresses these days). Thanks for the great post.
ReplyDeleteYou sneek up on the theme and surprise it : like you were catching a rabbit. Another thoroughly enjoyable post : a pleasure to read. This is what Sepia Saturday is all about.
ReplyDeleteFascinating. I wonder why Mercury was needed for making felt. In any case, those dresses are works of art, though they may not have been comfortable or practical.
ReplyDeleteThis was most enjoyable!! While I still believe the fashion impractical, it was nonetheless impressive, to say the least.
ReplyDelete:)~
HUGZ
Nancy, My fingers get tired thinking about it!
ReplyDeleteAlan, This theme was a tricky one to bag.
Christine, Now you have me wondering too. I'm not exactly certain why the mercury was necessary.
TB, The fashions truly were impressive. But not so much more impractical than the ultra mini skirts I wore in my youth. Lost a great many pencils in those days. If you dropped it, it was history! There was no way to graciously retrieve anything from the floor. Picking things up from the table was hard enough. ;)
I nice story and collection of images. Early dressmaking seems more like upholstery though.
ReplyDeleteThe answer about mercury is that processing non-beaver furs to make imitation beaver felt used mercury nitrate, which turns the material orange, called 'carroting' and makes it stick together better. During the several steps: boiling, steaming, etc. it breaks down and mercury is released.
Thanks Mike for the answer to the question on mercury!
ReplyDelete